Which grit sequence to use at each stage — from rough shaping to final polishing.
| Grit | Classification | Operations | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 40 | Extra coarse |
| Leaves deep scratches; only for heavy shaping. Always follow with 60 or 80. |
| 60 | Coarse |
| Good starting point for rough stock or removing mill marks. |
| 80 | Coarse |
| Common starting grit for already-planed or jointed surfaces. |
| 100 | Medium |
| Many woodworkers skip this and jump from 80 to 120. |
| 120 | Medium |
| Last coarse grit before fine work begins. Often the finish-prep grit for softwoods. |
| 150 | Medium-fine |
| Many finishers stop here for oil finishes on open-pored species. |
| 180 | Fine |
| Recommended pre-finish grit for most hardwoods with film finishes. |
| 220 | Fine |
| Go no coarser than 180–220 before your first finish coat. |
| 240 | Very fine |
| Used dry or with a lubricant to knock down dust nibs between coats. |
| 320 | Very fine |
| Good between-coat grit for lacquer and water-based finishes. |
| 400 | Extra fine |
| Often used with water or mineral spirits as lubricant. |
| 600 | Ultra fine |
| Start here for a satin rub-out on a cured film finish. |
| 1000 | Micro fine |
| Use with water, mineral spirits, or rubbing compound. |
| 2000 | Micro fine |
| Automotive-style rubbing; follow with 3000 and polish for piano finish. |
Stop at 180. Oil finishes penetrate the grain — going finer can close the pores and reduce absorption.
Allow each coat to fully cure before sanding. Sand with the grain — circular scratches show through film finishes.
Softwoods scratch and dent easily; avoid heavy machine sanding. Raise the grain with water, let dry, then sand to 150 before finishing.
Goal is to knock down dust nibs and improve adhesion, not to remove material. Use light pressure.
Grit numbers (P-grade / CAMI) differ slightly between manufacturers. The P-grade system (common in Europe) uses finer particle sizing at high grits — P400 is slightly finer than American CAMI 400.